Simplicity 2365, View B (tunic)

This is my second attempt at this pattern since first trying it in 2011.  Despite it being too big in many places, it was reasonably wearable with a belt.  However, I sent this off to Wadderville because I could not get the collar stand to work.  The left side (facing) looks good, but the right side is all kinds of wrong.

I decided to give it another try, but opted for a bias-bound neckline instead.  More details below.

Fabric & Notions:

• 2 yards of cotton voile
• polyester thread
• self-fabric bias tape
• 70/10 Microtex sharp needle 
• size 4.0 stretch twin needle (it's what I had on hand)
• pintuck foot
• serrated tracing wheel and wax tracing paper 

Machine Settings:

• pintucks: 2.5 length, 2.5 width
• seams:  2.5 length, 2.5 width
• topstitching:  3.0 length, 2.5 width
• tension:  4.0

Fitting & Alterations:

Originally I started with an 18 but that proved to be way too big.  So, I sized down to a 16 on the front and about a 14 across the back. 

Back
To compensate for the decrease in width across the back created by using a smaller size, I made a 5/8" broad back adjustment.     
 

Front
I lowered the bust fullness 1.25" (on both the side front and center front pieces).  I also made a similar width adjustment (as in the broad back) on the side front pattern piece. This adjustment adds extra width at bust level and slightly raises the armhole. I did not do a traditional FBA.

Sleeves
I can't remember the size I used for the sleeves, but I do remember shaving off a bit from the sleeve seam (not cap) to match the adjustments made at the side seams.

One thing to note is that the sleeve cap in view B has gathers and a pouf.  The print hides this detail on the front of the pattern envelope, but the line drawing shows it very clearly.  If you're not a fan of the pouf, I would suggest removing some height from the sleeve cap before cutting the fabric.

Neckline
I took off 1/2" from the neckline so that the bias binding didn't creep around my neck.

Construction:

Pintucks

I don't even remember why I bought a pintuck foot, though it definitely came in handy for this project.  The instructions have you mark the lines for the pintucks, "pick up the fabric" and press to one side, then stitch the tuck in place. You have to do this for each pintuck and these tucks aren't that wide.  Ummmmmmm...no!

Why do all of that work when a pintuck foot does it for you? =)  Coupling the foot with a twin needle tucks the fabric while simultaneously securing it with the zigzag stitch underneath.  The video on this site shows the creation of a pintuck in action.  Like the video shows, I also pressed my pintucks in one direction - in this case, away from the center front.

Even though I didn't follow the pattern instructions, I didn't lose much width across the front by making the pintucks this way.

Note:  Since I hadn't used a twin needle in a while, I had to consult my machine's manual to remind myself how to set it up.  The manual said to orient the second spool of thread so that the thread fell over the top.  This created all kinds of problems!  I had thread nests, skipped stitches, and broken threads.  When I flipped the spool so that the thread was underneath, everything sewed like normal.  I don't know if my manual has an error or not.  If you encounter problems with the twin needle, try not following your machine's instructions!

Self-bias Neckline

Collar stands are still a work in progress for me (see above hot mess).  When I saw Belinda's version of this top, I knew I wanted to copy her idea.  Thanks Belinda!  It was the perfect solution to a problem that still needs fixing.

I made continuous bias binding using this tutorial.  I've seen many different methods on making continuous bias strips, but this one has NEVER failed me.  I can get between 6 and 8 yards of bias binding out of a single fat quarter using this method.  And as a bonus, mastering the technique doesn't even take that much practice!  I was able to successfully make the binding on my very first try. 

French Seams
I sewed all seams (except the sleeves) with a french seam.  My fabric is very thin and would have probably puckered if I tried to serge-finish the edges.  I found that using a small Microtex needle helped to keep the stitches nice and smooth.  In finishing the armhole seams, I sewed the seam first and serged them together.  I don't notice any puckering in this area.

Narrow Hem on Sleeves
Because I was so focused on binding the neckline, I used the remaining fabric to create the bias strips and neglected to cut out the sleeve band.  So my sleeves are much shorter than intended.  To finish the hem, I sewed a very narrow 1/2" hem by folding under 1/4" twice and topstitching.

Conclusion:

This is a good pattern with generous ease and a few different design possibilities.  It's great for warmer weather and is quick to sew.  I don't know that I'll sew it again any time soon, but it's definitely in the sewing rolodex if I want to revisit it again.

Here the top is accompanied by OOP Vogue 7880 (pattern photo credit:  Judith of Made by J).

Here the top is tucked in and paired with Vogue 8426.

Up next:  I'm working on styling my stash as inspired by the sensational SarahLiz.  This sew along couldn't be more perfectly timed.  I am focused on sewing small spring/summer capsules, busting the stash, and knocking off snoop-shopped looks.

Back in January, I made the following pledge:

"I, Lynn of You sew girl!, commit to using at least 12 pieces of stash fabric in 2013. I also commit to using at least 10 patterns from the stash. Stash includes any fabric or patterns on hand prior to the date of this pledge, 15 Jan 2013."

The Jalie jeans and Simplicity tunic count as two pieces of stash fabric sewn.  I won't count the patterns used because I've attempted them before.

I may be a little slow to blog over the next few days as my rusty desktop is finally showing its age.  Upgrades aren't even affecting it anymore, so after 10 years of faithful computing, I think it's time to put it down.  =)

Until next time, peace!

L

Quick Home Dec Project

One of my former students recently crossed Omega Psi Phi Fraternity, Inc.  As a gift, I made him some appliqued pillowcases.  Now I've made pillowcases before, but I've never appliqued anything.  Sure I could have scoured the interwebs for Greek letter patches, but then that would have required me to...um...scour the interwebs.  It's funny how laziness works.  I didn't feel like searching the net, so I made my own letters - which took far more work and a subsequent scouring of said webs for information on how to applique.  Hah.  I amuse me.  

I actually found this whole process kinda fun.  I learned how to use fusible web and freezer paper to create the letters as well as attach them to the hem band using a satin stitch. 

First I fused the web to the back of the fabric out of which the letters were to be cut.
 

After printing and  then tracing the letters onto freezer paper, I pressed the freezer paper onto the fabric.  Sidebar:  why has no one ever told me about freezer paper??  This stuff is amazing!  It is so easy to work with and does not damage the fabric.  I am in applique heaven.  Well, not really.  But you get the point.

The photo below shows a couple of letters already cut out and re-fused to the fabric.  Yes.  You can reuse the freezer paper!  Genius!

Here are the letters ready for fusing to the hem band.

Next, I peeled away the paper backing and pressed the letters onto the hem band.

 

I included both the letters and his line number.  Aww...  I'm so proud of the little runt.

So that was the "easy" part.  Next up was to apply the satin stitch around the edges.  This was brand new to me so I just winged it.  The best piece of advice I read online involved where to stop the needle when pivoting at an inside or outside edge.  If it's an outside edge, stop the needle on the right.  If it's an inside edge, stop the needle on the left.  By the time I got to the second pillow case, I had this down to a science.

Each pillow case has the letters and line numbers on both sides.  This way, the pillowcase body can experience even wear.  Also, the fabric is 100% cotton and should wash well.

I gave him the gift on Friday and he was quite hyped!  He is confident that he is the only Que with Omega pillowcases.  I told him it better stay that way, too!

Does this mean I'm getting into the Greek letter pillowcase business?  Probably not.  I rarely  sew for anyone else.  But he was a good student and always comes back to say hi, so I thought it would be a nice gesture to do this for him. 

Admittedly, this is why it took me longer to finish the jeans.  I stopped working on them after the semester ended to whip up this project.  Now that both the jeans and pillowcases are finished, I can move (and have moved) onto something else.

I have one more post to complete the jeans #9 series.  The post is written, I just need to snap some photos.  Until next time, peace!
 
L

Contouring a Waistband

A straight rectangular waistband is no good for a person with trunk junk.  The waistband will gap at the center back and cause unnecessary exposure.  To contour the waistband, I used the instructions provided by Jennifer Stern in her "Blueprints to Better Jeans" class on PR.  

1.  The first thing I did was draw the straight grainline since I don't cut my waistband on the bias.

2.  Align the waistband and bake yoke pieces at the center back.  2" from the center back, draw a vertical line from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the yoke.  Draw two or three more vertical lines 2 inches apart from the first one.  The number of lines you draw depends on the amount of width you plan to remove from the waistband. 

I just had a revelation about this method for this particular waistband!  I'll share it at the end of the post.

 

3.  I removed 4 inches of width altogether.  I drew four vertical lines and will dart out 1/2" at each line.  To do this, mark 1/4" on either side of each vertical line.  Since I worked with one-half of the waistband, the amount removed on this piece is 2 inches.

The marks are in blue. 

 4.  Draw a single line connecting the left mark with the bottom of the line on the back yoke.  Repeat for the right mark.  Do this for each of the vertical lines drawn.

 

5.  Finally, fold on the vertical line, overlap the dart edges, and tape in place.  Alternatively, you can cut on one dart leg, match it with the other, and tape in place.  Do the same for the yoke piece.  The changes to the yoke piece are so small, I didn't bother taking out the excess.  I haven't had a problem with fitting the waistband to the yoke.
  

curved waistband

As I was writing this post, thought more about how this method affects this particular waistband.  The Jalie waistband is designed to be cut into two pieces, sewn ad the center back, and then joined to the pants front/back.  Then, it's folded lengthwise and topstitched.  So actually, the waist seam is in the center of the piece.

So the amount removed is actually less than planned since the dart isn't as wide in this area.  I never realized this until now.  This may explain why my waistband still gapes a bit.  I will have to address this in future pairs of jeans.

I hope this was helpful!

L