27 November 2015

In Progress: Burda Skirt, New Look Shirt

Super huge thanks to Sharon for passing along her notes on how to sew the yoke on the Burda skirt.  I gave up on trying to understand the instructions and fumbled around with the pieces instead.  When I read her tips, everything clicked and I was able to insert the yoke without any problems.

I am not adding buttonholes, so the yokes are pinned temporarily.  

This isn't an error in sewing.  The back side seams are higher than the front to allow for attaching the facings.  

I have a hate-but-I-get-it relationship with facings.  When sewing skirts, I never include them, opting to use peterhsam instead.  In this case, though I am not sure how the facings will work and I haven't played with the pieces yet.  

Since my fabric is bit flimsy and wool, I wanted to include a lining.  Again, with the weirdness that is the top, I wasn't sure how to attach it.  So, I underlined it instead.

I cut the lining pieces the same size as the shell and hand-basted them together.  I know there is another way to underline and add a Hong Kong seam finish at the same time.  If I sew this pattern or underline again, I'll adapt the lining pieces for this type of finish.  I think it will make the insides look much nicer.

As I type this, I am wondering if a petersham waist finish is actually possible.  Hmm.  I would have to cut it in two pieces.  One piece would wrap from the right (pictured) front around to the left side seam.  The second, much smaller piece would be sewn only to the left (pictured) front.  I'll play around with it and see what happens.


Back in August, I started another version of my TNT top pattern, New Look 6407.  I stopped working on it when I joined the PR sewing bee.  Still in need of tops, I resumed working on it and am almost finished.

The fabric is stretch cotton poplin and is most unforgiving with wrinkles.  Why oh why do I torture myself like this!  I thought I learned my lesson with my last foray into stretch cotton poplin tops:

The wrinkles are not nearly as hideous as this, but still.  Gaaah! 


Both garments are part of my Starting from Scratch wardrobe building plan.  I'm not really following the order presented on the Vivienne Files - which is probably not how this is supposed to work. =)  Instead, I am filling in holes in my closet and trying to make things that I need to wear now while keeping in mind the colors in my plan.

That's all for now.  I hope everyone had a peaceful holiday.


24 November 2015

BWOF 4-2009-101

I finally cut out my next, hopefully successful sewing project:  a simple skirt.  At least, the design looks simple.

photo credit:  Miss Celie's Pants

I read through the instructions and have not an effing clue as to what Burda is talking about with the front inset.  The instructions start out okay, then delve into WTF midway through. 

1.  Lay each interfaced front yoke piece on yoke piece with no interfacing RST. 

2.  Stitch along front and upper edges.  

3.  Begin stitching on left front yoke exactly on seam line of joining edge.  

Um...okay.  What joining edge?  The edge that will eventually join with the side front?

4.  Trim seam allowances.  

5.  Turn yokes right side out. 

This wasn't done already?

6.  Work buttonholes in right front yoke.   

7.  Baste right front yoke to left front yoke, matching centres and not catching left yoke piece with no interfacing.  

What are you talking about?

8.  Clip allowance at marking on right inside yoke piece.

9.  Stitch yoke right sides together with upper edge of center front skirt panel, not catching inside yoke pieces.

Again, what are you talking about?  So the inside yoke piece isn't attached to the center front panel at all?  How does that make this stable?  I am so confused!

The instructions for attaching the facing are equally confusing.  I normally don't include facings on skirts, but I couldn't think of a better way to clean-finish and stabilize the top edge.  Ugh!  Maybe I should have read the directions first before cutting out my fabric.  Waaaaah!

Oooooooh Shaaaron!  You've sewn this skirt, yes?  What in the holy hell is Burda talking about? =)

Anyone have any ideas?


15 November 2015

I Need a Reboot

Sewing has come to a near-complete stop.  With my weight all over the place, nothing fits and my sewjo is on leave.  Clothes I made as early as May don't fit now (too tight) and I'm sour about it.  Waaaaaah! 

Wadders are again ranking supreme this year.

Vogue frankenpattern pants
Yeah, I think they're headed back to wadderville.  I tried to take out some of the fullness in the lower leg, but now the grain is off and the leg is too tight.  I have zero desire to try and fix them.

BWOF 9-2006-114 (sans pockets)
Still on the hunt for a wrapped dress, I muslined this pattern.

The verdict?  I need an FBA.  I knew I needed it just looking at the pattern.  But I forged on anyway.  Even with the generous give in my knit, the bodice is still too small.

Butterick 5678
This is the very popular shoulder princess seam button front shirt.  I attempted this pattern three times and have concluded that it just doesn't work for me.  When I shortened the length, the shirt was too tight and wouldn't button.  When I restored to the original length and took smaller seam allowances, the shirt was big and unsightly.  Uncle!

Simplicity 1523
Simple knit top, right?  Wrooooong.  The bust pleats are an epic fail.  No amount of pressing flattens these things and it is not a good look on my bust.  If I try this pattern again, I have to move the pleats or something.

 (photo credit:  Judy Sumler)

McCall's 7254
This was a fail because of the fabric.  I used a medium-weight sweater knit with too much crosswise stretch.  As a result, the front droops horribly and looks unkempt.  The only photo that exists is on Instgram and, now that I think about it, I think I deleted it.  It's awful, really awful!

Starting from Scratch Challenge
While this isn't a wadder per se, my progress is stalled.  I made it as far as Step 7 but stopped because one of my garments from a previous step is a disaster and I lost motivation.

I made another version of my TNT New Look 6407, but with the collar stand only.   For some reason, the fit is terrible.  Terrible!  The collar stand is inches away from my neck and the neckline gapes horribly.  I have enough fabric left to cut a new stand and collar.  But the sewjo...

Sooooooooooooooooooo yeah.  I need a reboot.  I don't know what to sew and I need clothes.  Even my palate-cleaning jeans aren't motivating me right now.  I need to find something to sew that can accommodate weight changes and that won't frustrate me too much.

On the bright side, my pottery is on jam.  I finished this lamp several months ago and finally wired it up yesterday.

I have another completed lamp that needs wiring, but I ran out of parts.  I'm working on another set of dishes for myself and for a dear friend.  I also have some lidded jars and vases in the works. 

Until next time, peace!



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